UKC

Climbs 66
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 527m a.s.l
Faces E

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Knee jam rest on Bobo dodo (L1) at Fraguel © climberchristy

Crag features

Fraguel is a stunning cliff that has the best hard sport climbing on the island, attracting climbers from all over the world. It is located in a beautiful wooded valley near the town of Bunyola, and is hidden from almost every direction, including the one used to approach the crag. The crag gets the sun until about 2 o'clock in the afternoon, which is a benefit in warm weather when it can offer pleasant afternoon shade. At cooler times, the crag can be extremely cold - even in April. This is especially true when there is any wind, since it howls down the gorge below the crag. If you're planning a long spell of belay duty, while your mate 'dogs' his or her 8a, take a big duvet jacket. Most of the harder routes will stay dry in moderate rain, but the tufas do start to seep after any prolonged rainfall. The easier routes at either end offer little shelter in the rain, but usually dry fairly quickly.

Approach notes

Update 19th March 2024 - The normal approach has now been re-instated following the storms of early 2023 that closed it due to storm damage.

 

From the centre of Bunyola, drive towards Santa María. Turn left as you leave the village (this is 200m before a bar on the left). Follow the narrow road/track, gradually gaining height, through lots of hairpin bends. Just after the 5km marker, park the car carefully by a path on the right-hand side of the track - leave enough room for large forestry lorries to get past. Follow the path from the parking area for about 60m, to a small clearing. Keep to the left-hand fork. 15m after the fork go left into the bushes and emerge immediately onto an old charcoal pit (a grassy circle). Leave this on its opposite side and wander through the trees on a small path until near the edge of the cliff. Head leftwards (facing out) - (some cains) to a short awkward groove with metal rungs in place which lead down to the crag base. The path leads back easily right (looking out) under the cliff to below the routes.

Access Advice

In 2014 the local administration was said to have imposed a charge for all recreational users (at a toll booth on the road up) for access to the area, but this seems to have faltered. Please report any changes or access updates to Rockfax/UKC.

In March 2023 there were signs on the approach road stating "Only authorised vehicles allowed". It wasn't clear whether there was any enforcement of this. There is a gate that is apparently locked from May to October to reduce the risk of forest fire.

 

 

From research elsewhere it appears the gate is closed in the summer months, from May to October for fire risk, today it was open. Finding the crag however from the charcoal pit is a real mission with fallen branches heavily disguising the path down, to the point we abandoned the approach. Could be worth bringing a compass and a machete!
climberinspace - 27/Mar/23
Hi, tried to go to Fraguel today, following the approach directions in rockfax there is now a locked gate on the small dirt track blocking the way to the crag. It's about 3km from the suggested parking so will add a fair amount of time onto the approach. There is 2 spaces limited parking the bend before but no where to turn around, had to reverse down 4 bends! No other parking so we bailed.
Annika Marie - 15/Sep/19
There is now a locked gate halfway up the road the approach description recommends
Dean177 - 04/Jun/19
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Climbs at this crag

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