Rockfax Description
A brilliant sustained exercise tackling the leaning groove in the back of the cave. Summon your energy levels and keep some for the final moves before the steadier headwall above the first lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This takes the obvious groove up the back of the main cave. Don't be put off by the sometimes damp holds at the start - the rest is fantastic. Start slightly left of the groove, moving up to gain the conglomerate ledge for a good hands off rest. From here some fancy footwork and a few big moves allow progress higher into the groove and (hopefully) to an intermediate belay where the angle eases. For an extra pump, and the full tick, continue up the recently-regeared No Epoxy Au Oxley to a higher belay.

Goi Ashmore 19/Apr/1996.

Ticklists

South Wales Sevens , Rockfax South Wales Top 50 , Becky's ticklist , The Road to 8a , Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal , Rockfax South Wales Top 45 , UK Flowstone , Steep UK Sport Routes , Recommended 7's 2021 , Jimbo 2024

Feedback

User Date Notes
Behold81 21 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Love this route. However left pin on the first chains is moving and should not be relied on.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Love this route. However left pin on the first chains is moving and should not be relied on.
tomlangton 28 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Left pin on the first lower off is currently loose and spins in its hole, needs replacing ASAP!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Left pin on the first lower off is currently loose and spins in its hole, needs replacing ASAP!

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 73
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Sharp Cereal Professor

Grade: 7b ***
(Dinas Rock)

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