UKC

Climbs 255
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 203m a.s.l

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Fiend, still under a Delusion but nearly there... © Fiend

Crag features

A lot of cleaning has been started on the Red Walls with rubbish being picked up, broken glass removed and brambles cleared from the base of the routes. A path has also been cleared along the base of the Empty Quarter Lower Tier. A lot of the old tat has also been replaced. The face between Grooved Wall and Red Wall has also seen a massive clean up opening up what looks like some easier grade routes. A big thanks to all involved with keeping this awesome quarry usable. Others can do there part just by coming and enjoying the vast amount of great routes on offer to keep them clear.

The Red Walls and Cherry Bomb areas are fast drying even in winter. So when Wilton 1 is wet or you need to escape the crowds or your just looking for somewhere different to climb head on over to the sharp unpolished rock of Egerton.

It looks like another crag clean up is to be organised by the BMC early 2016.(Dec 2015)

 

The bridge has recently been bricked up so many routes underneath and on the other side of the bridge are no longer accessible (May 2021) 

Approach notes

From the Egerton side, park in the bay opposite the "Rock Fold" sign. There are new houses built where the guidebook suggests you should park. Continue up the hill and over the bridge and find the access path immediately on your right, blocked off with boulders. It is probably better to follow the access as described from Darwen if the crag ever gets busier.

No Access Issues

The BMC is involved in a conservation project with the landowner to enhance the appeal of the crag, removing some of the saplings currently shading the crag and using other local volunteer groups to remove litter. After agreement at an area meeting, bolt protection has been installed Sparkin' Bush and Mental Mantel. A lower off is also to be installed on Corner Jam, to avoid the shale exit.

There has been a recent removal of agreed fixed protection, if you don't agree with the efforts to find a balance of protection here and in the other quarries, please raise your concerns at a BMC local area meeting. You do not need to be a member to attend, if you are not able to attend please raise your concerns with the area rep.

Local residents are making efforts to keep the quarry free of litter, please support their efforts by not adding any more and consider taking litter out, even if you're not doing a formal cleanup.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A barn owl roosts in the Cherry Bomb area - please try and avoid this area.

The bridge has been filled in and walled up. Climbs on the Bolton side are no longer accessible.
alr1970 - 04/Jun/23
Climbed on Red Wall and Cherrybomb area. Both very clean rough rock. the bottom is also clear. Cannot believe I have not been here before, great quarry. thanks to those who have cleaned it up and put in the bolt belays.
sjbrook - 16/Aug/17
July 2015 - Looking green and overgrown, take gloves, strimmer and a stiff brush... Oh and wellies
Stuart Wildman - 31/Jul/15
Overgrown, wet in the bottom and dirty / green routes. Needs a lot of gardening and then traffic to keep stuff in good nick - which I doubt it will get. Can't recommend a visit unfortunately!
JDC - 30/Jul/15
Lots of greenery on small ledges of many of the routes, and bushes at a lot of the bases of the routes. In short, needs a bit of gardening and a tidy up!
The Norris - 18/Jul/13
Aug 2012. Getting a bit overgrown again, and dusty. LAck of traffic seems to be showing, hardly suprisingy considering the crap summer.
bigglesbutcha - 31/Aug/12
aug 29th 2011 overgrown bog with loads slimey sandy walls pictures look far better than it really is .... not gping back there
philb - 29/Aug/11
Eleventh Hour, Guillotine and Phantom Zone climbed this eve. All good and significantly cleaner than earlier today.
Rich Kirby - 12/May/09
Really recommend Esmerelda and the E1 next to it. Both nice routes with no stars.
rpbostock - 12/Aug/08
Nature seems to have taken hold once again - a few of the classic lines are clean (such as Cherry Bomb), but in general its pretty overgrown.
ColinAus - 27/Jul/08
Bit of a Dive, VS routes are half-decent tho
Craigm411 - 26/Mar/07
Egerton's very fine climbing is gradually reappearing and being reappreciated!! Following a clean-up day in May 2004, some areas of the quarry are in considerably better condition. See http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=84761 and http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=92210 for details. Wood Buttress is in particularly good condition and proving popular, as are various mid-grade routes around the quarry including of course the ever-popular Cherry Bomb area. And some good people are keeping cleaning more routes to expose their true quality. So if you like quarried grit climbing you don't have any excuse for avoiding it - visit the quarry, enjoy it's good, accessible, mid-grade routes, and thus help keep it in good condition for others to enjoy.
Fiend - 16/Jul/04
I went there last night and we did Renaissance E5, Satin Sapphire E3, Phantom Zone E3 and Surfin Bird E3. Also this year we have done Third time lucky E3, Stolen goods E4, Lucky Heather E4, Alec trench E5 and Walking on glass E4 all these routes are prety good and there are plenty of other routes to go at. The trouble is some people can't see past their noses, or at least the brambles. A couple of hours work at the clean up, tommorow, requires virtually no effort and would be much appreciated so try and get down there to help made Egerton a veggie free venue.
Geoff Hibbert - 07/May/04
Went to have a gander and decided this "could" be the best in the area (bar houghton) if only it was cleared and people actually climbed there. Watch out when going to the bottom as we got lost and ended up on a golf course.
Neil - 04/Jul/03
Take a brush for harder routes. Cherry Bomb is one of the best VS routes on quarried grit, i.e. it won't fall on you and has great gear. Dizzy the Desert Snake (E1, easy if you're tall) and God Save The Queen (HVS, long and pumpy) are also highly recommended. Take a machete for the descents.
Duncan Irving - 15/May/03
Cherry bomb was hilarious - Jam, or layback - ergo Goliath's Groove Stanage. Watch out for evil brambles on descent.
lee - 31/Oct/02
There are some good routes here, although they are all VS and above. Cherry Bomb is worth doing. Egerton just needs a bit of traffic and it could become a very good venue.
James - 29/Aug/02
Visited the quarry on 14/07/02.No sign that anyone has been there for ages to climb.Why?
Paul Glover - 19/Jul/02
I went to this place to have a look. It is totally overgrown at the moment and the rock hasn\'t seen chalk for a while. Yuck!
GCW - 14/May/02
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