Climbs 250
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 191m a.s.l
Faces all
Amazonian gritstone? Me on The Alamo (E2 5b), Eavestone, North Yorkshire © Jamie Moss
Crag features
Fantastic setting, hidden gems are dotted around two small lakes jam-packed full of jumping trout. The climbing is in accordance with Yorkshire grading (sandbags abound) and gives some excellent problems within a truly esoteric wooded area. [Chris George 12/02]
For 3 years from 1989 to 1991 this was my favourite crag, I rarely went anywhere else. However its not one to visit at late autumn. April/May is the best time, although on a dry but windy winter's day you will find some sheltered climbing and bouldering on the Wall on Mirrored Water and Boathouse buttress areas. The Fort stays fairly clean and dry as well. [Dave Musgrove 12/02]
Approach notes
If struggling to locate individual buttresses or their names using the rockfax guide, a full description of the routes and their locations can be found here.
No Access Issues
Climbers should note that fishing and shooting syndicates pay for the use of the area - please do not antagonise any of these groups.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
A rope was put up across the path on the right side of the lake leading to the line of buttresses from Kloof Crag to Tin Pan Alley some time ago. The official footpath goes down the left side of the lake and it was thought that the rope was simply an indicator to ramblers to 'keep left' rather than a formal barrier to climbing on the Eavestone side. Visits have met with no opposition and the rope disapeared when the substantial tree to which it was tied blew down. No formal access agreement has ever been reached here but climbers have rarely been challenged in the past.
| Visited to check out top rope potential with our (small) kids. Not super child friendly, but the routes looked good, reasonably clean and with evidence of fresh chalk. Definitely keen to return. Sam W - 22/Aug/16 |
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| A significant re-cleaning effort has been undertaken over the last few weeks, particularly on The Eavestone, Wedge and Wall on Mirrored Water. Tin Pan Alley is also in pretty good condition at the moment and 2 new routes have been added. On the Eavestone itself all routes from Stonechat Ramp round the back to Eavestone Wall have been repeated and Crazy Paver in its clean condition thought to compare well with any other 3 star E2 in Yorkshire. Go get them done whilst still clean. Dave Musgrove - 31/Mar/12 |
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| Echoing others' comments here, a brilliant set of buttresses, good quality routes across a range of grades, and, as we found out today, fantastically sheltered when gale-force winds make Almscliff/Brimham etc a bit baltic for comfortable climbing. I was expecting the greenness to be a lot worse than it actually was; we weren't turned back from any routes by their being too dirty or green. PeteH - 28/Mar/10 |
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| In agreement with Fiend, we went there 3/05/07 and had a pleasant evening. Did Portcullis and Spinnaker, if the routes were cleaner they would warrant a lot more attention. I had also climbed there the previous weekend doing routes on Sunnyside Buttress, quite a clean little outcrop. Crofty - 04/May/07 |
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| Would be the best crag in Yorkshire by some way if it was all clean and in condition - the underlying rock quality, variety, and lines are superb.
Even as it is now, shrouded by trees and rhodies, and with many routes in need of cleaning, there is still some excellent climbing. The Fort area is in good condition, and the Eavestone and Wedge have some great climbs on.
Well worth a visit and deserves a lot more attention. Fiend - 28/Mar/07 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Matthew Ferrier and NickBradley