40m, 2 pitches.
Scotland's Right Wall gives classic committing face climbing that overhangs 3m in 30m. She is a pumpy number with spaced but adequate protection. 1. 6a. From 4m up the ramp climb the wall right of a small right-trending corner to jugs at the top. Make tricky moves to and from the break to the obvious flake. Use this to exit left into the scoop of Hang Out leading to the small belay ledge. 2. 5c. Step back down and reverse the traverse of Voie de l'Aime to the junction with Gotterdammerung. Climb up and right to a small niche and finish up the crack above.
Dave Cuthbertson, Mal Duff, Ken Johnstone 1980 Apr/1980.
Ticklists
Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Highland Outcrops South *** , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , My rock ticklist.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Steve Richardson | 25 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: To increase safety factor at the start, place a high left size 7 keyed wire in quartz. It’s bomber and saves ankles when starting from the left. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: To increase safety factor at the start, place a high left size 7 keyed wire in quartz. It’s bomber and saves ankles when starting from the left. |
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| J B Oughton | 30 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The description of the start of the route in the 2020 Wired Guide appears to be incorrect and involves some very bold climbing until the first break (I couldn't find any gear at all). The correct line (as per other guides) is the more obvious line a couple of meters further right, which appears both better and better-protected. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The description of the start of the route in the 2020 Wired Guide appears to be incorrect and involves some very bold climbing until the first break (I couldn't find any gear at all). The correct line (as per other guides) is the more obvious line a couple of meters further right, which appears both better and better-protected. |
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Route of Interest
Saving Up for a Rainy Day
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Weem Crags)