Restricted Access
There was a large rockfall in May 2006, routes around Titan Groove and Tower of Bable have been effected. The area may still contain loose rock - caution is strongly advised.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 15 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to the Central Quarry and Waterfall Area of Dovestones Quarry during the above dates (the lower left and lower right quarries are fine to access year round however).
Rockfax Description
Miles better than any other route in the Dovestones Quarries. The finger-crack gives super-sustained finger jamming all the way, well-protected, but with little for your feet. Another classic from the raiding Bancroft. . © Rockfax
FFA. Steve Bancroft 1978.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , World Graded List , 50 cracks to Squamish , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors) , Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour , Definitive *** Peak Grit , On Peak Rock , Proper Cracks UK , The Local Ticklist , East and West Top 25 , Will's Whippers
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| hamer89 | 23 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Cleared some of the ledges at the start as they were really over grown. Needs more traffic. New belay stake is good and easy to find. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Cleared some of the ledges at the start as they were really over grown. Needs more traffic. New belay stake is good and easy to find. |
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| George Frisby | 15 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: New belay stake about 10m - 15m directly uphill from the top of the route in the steep heather. There is a small sapling just uphill and to the left (looking uphill) of the stake, so if you get up to the level of the sapling, you have gone too far. It doesn't protrude out above the heather much so some hunting around may be needed. You can ab down from the stake and reach the ground just on a single 50m rope, 40m won't reach as we found out! Obviously use with caution, assess the stability of the stake for yourself before using it. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: New belay stake about 10m - 15m directly uphill from the top of the route in the steep heather. There is a small sapling just uphill and to the left (looking uphill) of the stake, so if you get up to the level of the sapling, you have gone too far. It doesn't protrude out above the heather much so some hunting around may be needed. You can ab down from the stake and reach the ground just on a single 50m rope, 40m won't reach as we found out! Obviously use with caution, assess the stability of the stake for yourself before using it. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovestones Quarry
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Calamity Crack
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Running Hill Pits)