Rockfax Description
A moorland classic. Start in a green and trend left past the arete. Climb straight up the steep wall then trend strenuously right through the bulges, keeping just above the lip of the overhang, to a tricky pull to ledges (possible stance). From here finish up and left via a final delicate slab or sneak off up Central Climb. © Rockfax
FA. Ted Howard et al. 1957.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , World Graded List , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , Burbage, Millstone and Beyond in 3 stars , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Dovestone Tor , On Peak Rock , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , The Gritlist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 100 Best Routes on Grit , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Duz Walker | 14 Jun, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful steep juggy climbing, there are even ways to rest at every move. Loads of bumper gear, hugely enjoyable. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Wonderful steep juggy climbing, there are even ways to rest at every move. Loads of bumper gear, hugely enjoyable. |
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| DannyC | 10 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: did this on wednesday, my first e1(definitely claiming it!). found the final slab the most difficult part although the overhang's v pumpy,without it the route would be hvs i think but the slab's unprotected and just tricky really, just making it low e1 for me(or indeed e0!). it doesnt seem particularly logical to the line though and is different to all of my old guides which show the route, then a hvs, escaping off to the right. anyway, fantastic, wonderful route and highly recommended. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: did this on wednesday, my first e1(definitely claiming it!). found the final slab the most difficult part although the overhang's v pumpy,without it the route would be hvs i think but the slab's unprotected and just tricky really, just making it low e1 for me(or indeed e0!). it doesnt seem particularly logical to the line though and is different to all of my old guides which show the route, then a hvs, escaping off to the right. anyway, fantastic, wonderful route and highly recommended. |
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| The Pylon King | 14 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Definately one of the all time best routes in the peak but only E0 5a at most! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Definately one of the all time best routes in the peak but only E0 5a at most! |
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| Nick Smith - Climbers | 18 Apr, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: A superb route. If you don't like unprotected slabs, miss out the top couple of metres for an HVS 5a/5b tick. An easy escape out left is possible. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A superb route. If you don't like unprotected slabs, miss out the top couple of metres for an HVS 5a/5b tick. An easy escape out left is possible. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovestone Tor
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East Rib
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shining Clough)