Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

14m.

Rockfax Description
The steep red wall forming the left wall of the arch is much easier than it looks. After a straightforward start, head up and right to a good flake then either go left to the first hole, or straight up on good crimps to a big finish. © Rockfax

Gary Gibson 1982.

Ticklists

Steep UK Sport Routes , Peak sport for mortals , My projecting journey

Feedback

User Date Notes
FaffmasterG 30 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant! Possibly the best route in the peak under 7a
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant! Possibly the best route in the peak under 7a
CammersClimbs 13 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: top screwgate is soldered shut. take a sling up to anchor and route the rope
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: top screwgate is soldered shut. take a sling up to anchor and route the rope
lee_tweedale86 24 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route in unlikely territory for the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route in unlikely territory for the grade.

Logged Ascents

366 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dovedale

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 140 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Megalithic Man

Grade: 6b+ ***
(Horseshoe Quarry)

Loading Notifications...