Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Brilliant climbing with lots surprising holds (10 maybe). Climb the short wall to a good ledge (possible belay). Step left and pull through a notch in the overhang onto the slab above. Continue up the face on good holds, trending slightly rightwards then making a reachy pull back left for the fine finish. © Rockfax
FA. Chris Calow 1978.
Ticklists
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , 33 By 33 , Diffage Comp
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JonnyHendry | 23 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: 60m rope isn't quite long enough to do the route and ab off the tree anchor in a single pitch (70m would be fine). Dodgy untying and downclimbing ensued. | ||
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βeta: 60m rope isn't quite long enough to do the route and ab off the tree anchor in a single pitch (70m would be fine). Dodgy untying and downclimbing ensued. |
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| dan66 | 5 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: The 1st pitch is 4b, however the second is 5a through the headwall | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The 1st pitch is 4b, however the second is 5a through the headwall |
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| climbersion | 27 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: 1st pitch a path, not worth 4a let alone 4b. 2nd pitch has one well protected reachy 5a move, ace route go do! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 1st pitch a path, not worth 4a let alone 4b. 2nd pitch has one well protected reachy 5a move, ace route go do! |
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| Albie | 29 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: I was told the top pitch was 5a - that's what i expected and that's what I got. A very worthwhile climb in a great location. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I was told the top pitch was 5a - that's what i expected and that's what I got. A very worthwhile climb in a great location. |
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| EarlyBird | 10 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: 2 pitches: 1st pitch, 4b; 2nd pitch, 5a...surely. | βeta? | |
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βeta: 2 pitches: 1st pitch, 4b; 2nd pitch, 5a...surely. |
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| Dave Garnett | 10 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: 4b?!! Maybe it depends on the line taken, but by the logical direct approach it has to be reachy 5a/b, though very safe. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: 4b?!! Maybe it depends on the line taken, but by the logical direct approach it has to be reachy 5a/b, though very safe. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Hawk's Nest Crack
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Froggatt Edge)