Rockfax Description
An amiable climb making the most of this side of the buttress. Pitch 3 is especially fine. Start below the square-cut niche with a holly tree which is the first belay.
1) 4b, 30m. Climb the initial slabs more or less direct keeping to rock that is clear of vegetation. This leads to the right-hand of two grooves that lead to the square-cut niche with a holly tree.
2) 15m. Move left out of the niche to a flake and head easily up to the grassy terrace. Then scramble up and right to belay below a steep crack through a bulge/nose.
3) 5b, 15m. Quite traditional and perplexing. From below the steep crack, go up right round the side of the wall to some spikes. Eventually move back left onto the front of the steep wall. Gain the crack, which is followed to a good spike belay.
4) 5a, 30m. Follow the crack up a slightly vegetated slab - optional belay to the right at the prominent break. From here follow a more technical left-rising line up the slab to reach a scoop near the centre of the slab below a crack. Continue over a small overlap then up the crack to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A good climb to the right of Hiawatha.
1. 30mts 4b. Climb easy slabs, and then tricky twin heather grooves to a holly in a niche.
2. 9mts. Go left to a flake and up to the Great Terrace.
3. 15mts 5b. The crux pitch. Climb a crack at the right end of a little wall. move right around a corner and up spikes until it is possible to move back left onto the wall then up a crack to a spike belay.
4. 9mts 4a. up a crack in the mossy slab to a large belay.
5. 21mts 5a. Ascend left along a rising traverse to a scoop. back to the crack above a small overhang a finish in a fine exposed position.

C J Mortlock, P M Hutchinson 23/Apr/1959.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist

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