Rockfax Description
A first-rate, hard route that features sustained and challenging climbing. Begin down and left of the grass ledge Gollum starts from, just left of a hanging block.
1) 5c, 22m. Climb either the groove or the crack to the left to a niche just left of the huge hanging block. Bridge up the left side of the block with a large spike. Feels exposed but the belay is just up and left at the base of the flake/groove.
2) 5b, 19m. Move right around the arete onto a hanging slab. Take the thin crack to where it runs out and then climb the edge of the slab to easier ground and a belay on the rake.
3) 10m. Walk left to belay on the right side of a flake just before The Mole belay.
4) 5c, 35m. Starting 1m right of the flake, climb over the initial roof, up a groove to reach good holds. Move up to the next overlap and traverse right to below a groove at its right end. Go up the groove to below the crux roof of Gollum. Step right and find the massive holds that lead through the roof just right of Gollum. This leads to a small ledge on flat-topped block. The slab above is taken direct and requires a steady approach as the holds are not obvious. Go up a groove and exit left to a grassy ledge.
5) 4b, 27m As for Gollum. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E3 ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Gary Gibson | 26 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson and Neil Harvey | βeta? | |
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βeta: First ascent GaryGibson and Neil Harvey |
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CharlieMack | 11 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Super dirty and overgrown at the moment. Needs a good wire brush. But still climbable. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Super dirty and overgrown at the moment. Needs a good wire brush. But still climbable. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Craig Yr Ysfa)