Rockfax Description
This short scramble can help fill half a day. Start from the lay-by by the large roadside boulders (the Cromlech Boulders). Go behind the largest boulder and follow a path up next to a stream bed, to where some scree leads up to below a steepening. Continue along the path as it cuts up and right below the cliff keeping an eye out for a narrow gully up and left. If you find yourself stood below a large vertical cliff with a big open-book corner, you have gone too far.
1) Scramble up the steep and loose exit and then turn right and follow the rounded rib up the left side of the crag. You can avoid any difficulty by keeping to the left in a scree-filled gully. Alternatively tackle the steps, which provide good practice in basic rope work for scrambling.
2) Eventually you reach the left side of a dome of rock with a vague path that cuts around its left side. Follow this path to a grassy col behind the crag and the top of a gully, which provides the descent. Before you head down, it is worth heading to the mini-summit up and right and taking in the commanding views of the Pass.
Descent - The climbers' descent path leads down the far side of the crag from here. Scramble down this - exposed in places but never too hard - to the base of the cliff and cut back below the cliff. Marvel at the open-book corner - a favourite haunt of rock climbers - and rejoin the approach path back to the lay-by. © Rockfax
Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves
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Grade: Grade-2 ***
(Glyder Fach)