Climbs 50
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 195m a.s.l
Faces N
Darlton Quarry Sunny Wall © Alan James
This quarry is part of the vast workings opposite Stoney crag and is situated between Goddards Quarry and Hidden Quarry. Three developed sections offer a variety of climbing and aspect. The Sunny Wall has a set of pleasant slabby routes that are sheltered and quick-drying. The Shady Wall is much steeper, seeps badly and gets no sun. The Balcony is located in trees high on the rim of valley, not actually in the quarry, tree cover provides sufficient shelter to possibly climb here during light rain.
From Stoney Middleton village drive west and park in the layby just beyond the right turn to Eyam (as for Stoney West). Walk back along the road and turn south (right) onto a bridleway. Follow this up to gates between two quarries. This point can also be reached by going over the gate by the parking and following the road directly up to the gates. Cross the gate into the main quarry and walk around to the right to the Sunny Wall. The Shady Wall is on the opposite side, further into the quarry and has a large tree at its top.
For the Balcony, walk further down the road towards Stoney and climb a gate into a smaller lower quarry which has a footpath sign in the left corner. A steep and slippery public footpath leads through the trees to the walls. Continuing up this path leads to the Upper Tier sun-trap of Goddard's Quarry (cross the fence at a small metal gate). These two contrasting areas can easily be combined in a visit.
A large limestone quarry where access is unclear.
Note 26/03/24: It has been reported that climbers have been challenged by someone claiming to represent the landowner. The climbers were told climbing was not permitted and that the owner intends to start prosecuting climbers. It should be noted that trespass is a civil offence only and there would be no grounds for prosecution, so long as no criminal damage had been done and the individuals left when asked to do so.
Anyone challenged in this way is asked to take a name and contact details so that the matter can be followed up by the BMC.
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