Climbs 26
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces NW
Crag features
Columnar dolerite giving rise to uniform series of grooves and ribs.
Doesn't look particularly inviting with a huge quarry below the crag and the rock looking quite green, but many of the routes are better than they look.
Had a look tonite (3 Aug 06) - the rock face could become a decent venue - except access from Dalmahoy Hill is not easy (lots of bracken to get through). The rock in very dirty, and there is a lot of grass on all the routes. What it needs is a season or two of climbing to clean it up. Also, having the working quarry below is not ideal. However, there are a load of decent looking routes. Maybe one day. Oh, and the views are fantastic.
Access Banned
Access from north by quarry road. Park at rail bridge (NT 136675). Follow a signposted right of way up to the crag.
Access is best over the hill, but finding your way to the base of the climbs is difficult. Maybe best way would be abseil from top?
The owners of the quarry are fairly adamant for no climbing on their land and they say they work till 1am so no chance of a late evening foray to stay out there way.