UKC

Climbs 93
Rocktype Slate
Altitude 302m a.s.l

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Caff enjoying autumn sunshine on Hidden Walls © mark reeves

Crag features

Routes mostly concentrated around the E1 grade. Some routes (the very hardest) have bolts, though hardly count as sport. Since 2006 many easier lines have been well bolted, to make this a popular sport climbing spot on a sunny day.

PLEASE REMEMBER THAT ALL ROUTES ON THE HOLY HOLY HOLY WALL ARE IN AN AREA OF DISPLAY, AND DUE TO CURRENT SITUATION WITH FIRST HYDRO, PLEASE `DO NOT `GATHER HERE IN LARGE NUMBERS, OR THIS COULD HAVE AN AFFECT ON ACCESS TO THE WHOLE QUARRYS.
`DO NOT` DAMAGE THE FENCE!

Hangars are currently stripped on the dalis hole routes!

Approach notes

Reached from Bus Stop Quarry parking and following the well-marked path through a gate, until you can see the large pool and bolted slab of Dali's Hole on the left.

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

The vast majority of the hangers have been removed off of the Holy, Holy, Holy wall. Bolts have been left and some of them have nuts still attached.
ben.phillips - 28/Apr/15
follow access from commenter below, also the abseil (in or off your climb) is either walk around, trust a rotting stumpy wooden (concreted based) post, trust a small rusty iron hanger of sorts or bring 2 L brackets and 2 nuts as there are bolts left in.
jamesgodwin64 - 07/Sep/14
DO NOT CLIMB THE FENCE!!!! The following link will show the correct 'spiral / round the back access' http://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msid=206243880791400744219.0004a7dffa652925269da&msa=0
Sl@te Head - 23/Jul/11
Hi Chris, It's this route: http://slate.wetpaint.com/thread/1751949/Harvey%27+s+Brass+off+retro+bolt
ERU - 06/Feb/10
Does anyone know what the name (if logged) of the sport climb between 'Zambesi' and 'Launching Pad' ? it has a piece of slate at the bottom which says it was bolted by accident and is at f6b... Cheers.
0ll - 16/Mar/09
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