22m.
An excellent climb on well-featured, water-worn limestone. Start a few metres left of the low-level triangular overhang, below a peg. Approach the peg either from the left (a bouldery traverse) or the right (a stylish rock-over). Climb past the peg to an easing. Some hollow orange rock on the right is a ‘blind alley’; move up left instead. Continue up the wall past two in-situ threads and pass a small roof with a long reach for a good hold. Pass a single peg where the lower off used to be and continue up the cleaned wall to reach a small holly tree, with insitu rope slings/ ab rings forming a belay/ lower off.
FA. Paul Donnithorne, Emma Alsford 01/Sep/1988.
Ticklists
Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ctodd | 17 May, 2023 |
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βeta: First peg is very bendy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: First peg is very bendy. |
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| wiwwim | 5 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Needs more traffic, but don\'t take all the holds off... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Needs more traffic, but don't take all the holds off... |
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| ChrisLeigh19 | 9 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Really cool route on pocketed limestone. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really cool route on pocketed limestone. |
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Guidebooks for Daddyhole Upper Cliff
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Route of Interest
Gideon
Grade: E1 5b ***
(The Dewerstone)