Rockfax Description
A fine but committing route that requires a steady head and an understanding of how to deal with loose rock. A rope and rock shoes are recommended. A great route if you are heading to the Alps where you might find yourself encountering this type of terrain. On entering Cwm Cneifion, overshoot the base of the route then double back up a faint path across the base of the crag up to the start of the left arete of the pinnacle, which is started a short way up the left gully.
1) Climb the slab just right of crest of the buttress. A lot of lateral movement is required to avoid the worst sections and to pick your way up the easiest line. The initial slab is protected by some flakes. Higher up protection is from nuts and cams and the final crux is near the top.
Descent or Continuation - Descend the gully on the right (looking in) to get to the base of Cneifion Arete. If continuing to the top, cross over the col and head up to the first terrace. Walk along here and climb the slab just before the narrow corner groove. On the next terrace, walk towards the arete and climb the slab just in from the edge in an exposed position. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Upgraded to VD in the latest CC Ogwen guide

Ticklists

Kirkus Routes , Colin Kirkus' routes , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves

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Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
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Route of Interest
Digitalis Direct/Pinnacle Ridge Route

Grade: VD ***
(Craig Braich Ty Du (Pen yr Ole Wen))

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