Restricted Access
A very nice crag with a popular non-tidal upper tier and well-featured rock.
There is a large colony of Herring Gulls which are now on the "red list" of endangered species in the UK, on the mid-height ledge in Spring - early summer, climbers are requested to avoid this section (see details below) as there is now an agreed seasonal restriction on this venue.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are likely to be a number of gulls and chicks during the nesting season on the half-way ledge of B-Team Buttress. At least 18 pairs of Herring gulls are known to nest here, making it one of the most important single sites for Herring gulls on this coastline. Please avoid during 1st March to 31st July. Routes affected are: 'Cloud Nine, Hang Ten' to 'CDM' on lower tier (routes 6-11 in CC guide) and 'Snap, Popple and Crack' to 'The Jogger' on the upper tier (routes 16-28). The gulls would make the climbing experience fairly unpleasant so better to choose another crag at this time of year.
(There are also agreed seasonal restrictions on the adjacent crag of Seaside Gully - see details under this crag)
Rockfax Description
An old favourite. It gives good crack and wall climbing on wonderful rock. Start below the cracks 3m right of the block. Climb the cracks to a break. Move up then left to a hidden flake hold and pull back right and up to another crack. Finish direct. © Rockfax
FA. M.Learoyd, G.Lewis 27/Oct/1979.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| derekm | 4 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: One of the best from a week of HVS/E1 climbing. The pocketed headwall seemed better climbed direct just left of the (awkward) final crack. And that wire's still there! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: One of the best from a week of HVS/E1 climbing. The pocketed headwall seemed better climbed direct just left of the (awkward) final crack. And that wire's still there! |
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| Ramon Marin | 18 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climb. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Lovely climb. |
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| Alun | 18 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: The jammed nut is still there (as James says, in the best placement) but there is other bomber gear around. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The jammed nut is still there (as James says, in the best placement) but there is other bomber gear around. |
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| PontiusPirate | 24 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: There's currently a rather large loose hold in the wide section of the right-hand crack in the lower wall - this is precisely the point where you can place your second bit of gear, so don't say you haven't been warned! There's also a jammed wire in the base of the final crack after the run-out section - looked ok, but probably won't last the winter in decent nick and is in the best placement! Apart from that - good climbing! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: There's currently a rather large loose hold in the wide section of the right-hand crack in the lower wall - this is precisely the point where you can place your second bit of gear, so don't say you haven't been warned! There's also a jammed wire in the base of the final crack after the run-out section - looked ok, but probably won't last the winter in decent nick and is in the best placement! Apart from that - good climbing! |
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| Furzy Sleight | 10 Feb, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nah - its a nice route (ok not classic) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Nah - its a nice route (ok not classic) |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Crickmail Point
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The Great Valerio
Grade: E1 5a ***
(Carreg-y-Barcud Area)