Restricted Access
A very nice crag with a popular non-tidal upper tier and well-featured rock.
There is a large colony of Herring Gulls which are now on the "red list" of endangered species in the UK, on the mid-height ledge in Spring - early summer, climbers are requested to avoid this section (see details below) as there is now an agreed seasonal restriction on this venue.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
There are likely to be a number of gulls and chicks during the nesting season on the half-way ledge of B-Team Buttress. At least 18 pairs of Herring gulls are known to nest here, making it one of the most important single sites for Herring gulls on this coastline. Please avoid during 1st March to 31st July. Routes affected are: 'Cloud Nine, Hang Ten' to 'CDM' on lower tier (routes 6-11 in CC guide) and 'Snap, Popple and Crack' to 'The Jogger' on the upper tier (routes 16-28). The gulls would make the climbing experience fairly unpleasant so better to choose another crag at this time of year.
(There are also agreed seasonal restrictions on the adjacent crag of Seaside Gully - see details under this crag)
Rockfax Description
Another popular classic. Start roughly in the centre of the wall by a small cave. Climb the cracks, past a small overlap, to a break continue up the crack above into a finishing groove. © Rockfax
FA. M.Learoyd, S.Lewis 03/Jun/1979.
Ticklists
100 More Classic British VS Climbs , The V.S.+ Ticklist , Pembs Ticklist , Pembs Classics
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Becky Athay | 19 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Would definitely give this HVS, well for the first 5m anyway | βeta? | |
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βeta: Would definitely give this HVS, well for the first 5m anyway |
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| alan moore | 31 May, 2005 |
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βeta: This is hard and pumpy. So many of the old Pebroke VS's are harder than more recent Extremes. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is hard and pumpy. So many of the old Pebroke VS's are harder than more recent Extremes. |
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| GrahamD | 3 May, 2005 |
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βeta: The current Rockfax seems to lead to some confusion where this route goes (the numbering has got out of sequence). Aero is the crack through the left end of the overlap. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The current Rockfax seems to lead to some confusion where this route goes (the numbering has got out of sequence). Aero is the crack through the left end of the overlap. |
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| derekm | 10 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Lovely climb, good steady VS all the way, all interesting moves and great value | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lovely climb, good steady VS all the way, all interesting moves and great value |
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| craig h | 9 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Nice climbing, especially when combined with Bounty - HVS 5a on the lower tier to give 2 good 5a pitches. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Nice climbing, especially when combined with Bounty - HVS 5a on the lower tier to give 2 good 5a pitches. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Crickmail Point
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Blue Sky
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Saddle Head)