Climbs 29
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 350m a.s.l
Faces SW
Climbers on Salamander © Ron Walker
Crag features
Climbing is being allowed now as the Eagles have possibly decided to nest elsewhere. Word of warning though is that if you come across eagles nesting on the crag please get off as quickly as possible and let me know by email. Thanks for your assistance this year and hope the eagles do well. Cheers Martin
The best climbing is found on Creag Ghlas west buttress which starts about 350 metres altitude.
Must Do Route :
Glass Slipper VS 4c
Salamander HVS 5a
Note from John MacKenzie
"Try to keep the crag clean especially on the starred routes. All the routes have become a bit easier with traffic as the cracks have widened with gear. All the original grades were for the FA’s and both this route and even Salamander were a full grade harder when first done. The final moves of Victory Crack were protected by R.P’s only. Much better now fortunately."
Approach notes
Please park over the bridge on the left hand
side rather than at the end of the track? Just in case a few cars end up blocking access.
Mountain bike from road end to track below main crag. Steep clamber up to Creag Ghlas.
Be aware of sheep ticks which can be abundant.
Access Advice
Currently Raptor Group have checked the site and now think the Eagles have nested elsewhere. Please be aware if you come across eagles nesting on the crag to get off as qucikly as possible and to inform myself by email so that I can alert those who need to know. Thanks Martin 22/05/23
The Crag may have restrictions during nesting period each year(early February to late July)if schedule one birds in residence. Depending on weather when surveyors go out to check it is not always possible to verify a nesting attempt easily so if you do notice or disturb raptors on the crag please let myself or Mountaineering Scotland know as soon as possible and nothing has been posted on either this site or the Mountaineering Scotland site. Check Mountaineering Scotland website for more details.
*Remember that any disturbance of protected species can constitute reckless disturbance even if you didn't know it was there and can still therefore be prosecuted so be careful and back off at first signs of any protected bird species being disturbed and inform Mountaineering Scotland to update their website to help inform others. Local raptor study group do monitor known crags including climbing crags.
| A brilliant crag that deserves more love (especially as it's so easy to give them a quick broddle when abseiling).
We gave Spoils of War and Hall of Mirrors a decent clean after leading.
Victory Crack and Chameleon were fairly clean, but also got a quick scrub on the way down.
The walk up is short but brutal! DannyC - 17/Jun/19 |
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| The spike at the top of the first pitch of Hall of Mirrors is now gone. The belay next to it was good thankfully. Rather arse twitching at the time... Smelly Fox - 24/Jun/18 |
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| Brilliant crag with some of the best slab and crack climbing in Scotland. Drexciyan - 01/Apr/12 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Lone Rider