Climbs 142
Rocktype Basalt
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces NE
Far from the Maddening Crowd - Craigton © Jack McKechnie
Crag features
A very quiet crag with short routes which because of a steep run-off feel higher. Some parts need several days to dry after rain, so pleae do not climb here until the rock has completely dried. Views to the north, particularly on a clear winter's day can often be spectacular, with frequent cloud inversions in the Strathblane valley and snow-capped peaks in the distance.
Information about the bouldering is available in the 2022 Glasgow Bouldering guidebook: ISBN 978-0-992887-64-3.
Belay stakes installed above the Clam area, 15 metres back. Can be used for Farewell Groove to Gremin's Groove taking in the main buttress.
In the summer the slope below the crag has a lot of bracken to the south end which makes access a bit harder. Remember to bring some tools for bushwhacking!
Approach notes
Park in the layby at NS 52482 77302 on the A809 heading north just before the hill up to the entrance to the Golf Club car-park. The main crag, about a 20 minute approach, is visible on the skyline to the south-west.
Go through the gate and turn south, trace the new fence (erected Jan. 2022) just inside the field to its downhill corner and cross the disused stone bridge over the stream (there really is a path over the bridge).
Cross over another locked gate on your right and head up the hill towards the nearest pylon. When it's reached, veer rightwards and descend slightly onto an open plateau, still heading towards the main crag. Cross the 4x4 track and follow the faint path up the right side of a steep gulley. Once this is passed via a narrow path and you arrive on the middle plateau, drop down left to the corner of a field where you cross a small burn. Head up the side of the wall till you get to a gate and walk up a partially surfaced road. Follow this up and around, passing The Pit sector on your right at the hairpin.
Sticking to this rough road, the main crag lies to the west of the woods on the hillside with the quarry at the south end.
| Took a walk up here with the dog/kids this weekend to see what it was like. Took some photos which are now uploaded. There looks like there could be some fun routes, but they are quite short, and it would certainly need a bit of a clean up, not to mention bushwhacking some bracken out of the way on the approach. There's also no obvious natural anchors above the routes so if you wanted to stay safe and top-rope you would have to bring your own belay stakes or ground anchors. If you want a wee project then go for it, but I would suggest trying Craigmore or Pillar Crag (in that order) if you want something more straightforward in this area. Both of these can be protected with top ropes to suit current COVID-related stay safe guidelines. drconline - 15/Jun/20 |
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| If you're interested in giving this place a clean please give me a shout, I'd be keen to help. Brendan - 17/Aug/14 |
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| Went for a look this week, there are some good problems and the crag has a nice outlook but it is really overgrown. Anyone wanting to climb here will have to do some cleaning first. Far from the Maddening Crowds looks fantastic for anyone wanting a 7C project. It has a layer of lichen at the moment but it looks like it would be easy to clean on an ab rope. Brendan - 01/Jun/14 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Jack McKechnie and Fraser