Rockfax Description
A tough and well-named route where technique and nerve will stand you in good stead. Can be lichenous.
1) 5a, 30m. Nip up the left-slanting groove to gain the ledge. Climb diagonally right to gain another ledge. From the right-hand side of this, climb the wall above to belay on the next ledge.
2) 5a, 18m. Head up the wall on good holds. Step left above the overlap into a groove. Climb this, then traverse right to a ledge.
3) 5a, 25m. Drop down 2m and traverse right to a ledge on the nose of the buttress. Move rightwards and then head diagonally left past sloping ledges to a grassy terrace.
4) 5a, 40m. Move left on the ledge to climb a steep wall into a groove. Climb the groove and easy slabs to the Bilberry Ledge. © Rockfax
UK Lonely Leads , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
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Grade: E1 5c ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))