58m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This crack provides a testing pitch. Scramble up to the base of the V-groove of Dorcon and start just to its left. Make some hard moves up the middle of the wall to gain the crack. Climb this to the rib and follow to the first belay on Y Gelynen. Finish up this. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The initial wall is bold, steep and testing; the crack, when reached, provides little respite. Very high in the grade; possibly E2 5c.

M Crook, M Griffiths May/1978.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List

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User Date Notes
LucaC 22 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure about high in the grade/E2. Pokey off the ground for about 4m until you get the first runner in, probably the hardest moves at the start. Well protected cruising up the crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure about high in the grade/E2. Pokey off the ground for about 4m until you get the first runner in, probably the hardest moves at the start. Well protected cruising up the crack.

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Guidebooks for Craig Yr Wrysgan

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 25
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Falcon

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))

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