A great traditional crag with some extremely popular routes such as Creagh Dhu Wall, Tensor and Pellagra.
From March to July there has been Owls and Jackdaws spotted nesting on some of the routes, please check your routes before setting of.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Tawny owls nest on the first pitch of Creagh Dhu Wall (shared with One step in the Crowds). Climbers are requested to move swiftly past this nest and not to hang around here to avoid distrubance from March 1st to the end of May. It's also worth noting that Tawny owls can be exceptionally aggressive in defending their nests and theer are known cases of serious eye injuries caused to people who venture too close to Tawny owl nests!
May 2023- Jackdaws nesting on the first pitch of Mensor, please avoid this area until they have left.
Rockfax Description
A pleasant route that can be climbed in one long pitch if you are careful with your ropes. Start below a pinnacle with a wide crack up its centre, where a tree abuts the base of the cliff.
1) 4b, 20m. Move up the left edge of the pinnacle until below a small roof. Step left round this and trend up and right to a sloping ledge and belay, or continue.
2) 4c, 25m. Move up the shallow groove on the right and traverse right to the rib at the break. Climb the steep wall to easier climbing above to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Starts well towards the right of the crag where a contorted oak (with several dead branches) grows from the foot of the crag just below a prominent rib.
1. 20m 4b Climb up the wide crack on the left edge of the rib, bearing right to stand on the tiny pinnacle below black overhangs. Step up and left around the arete and climb steeply via a thin flake, moving right to belay on a large sloping ledge.
2. 25m 4b Step up right into the foot of a groove and continue in a fine position around the arete. Climb the steep wall above on excellent holds and finish more easily up the buttress. At the moment (June 2010) there is an in situ abseil anchor.
D Alcock, A Cowburn 25/Apr/1964.
UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
johnlees | 4 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is a birds nest in the crack on the 1st pitch. A group climbed it this afternoon after making them aware which was a bit sad to see. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: There is a birds nest in the crack on the 1st pitch. A group climbed it this afternoon after making them aware which was a bit sad to see. |
||||
mandyglanvill | 4 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is a jackdaw nest in crack above start, but does not involve route. | ||
Show beta
βeta: There is a jackdaw nest in crack above start, but does not involve route. |
||||
Butty | 23 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route with some airy moves on both pitches. Easy enough route finding and gear where you need it.... Not sure the 2nd pitch is the crux? For me it was the last couple of moves of P1 but maybe I missed something. Abseiled back down to the rucksacks and tat in good condition and the tree is solid. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great route with some airy moves on both pitches. Easy enough route finding and gear where you need it.... Not sure the 2nd pitch is the crux? For me it was the last couple of moves of P1 but maybe I missed something. Abseiled back down to the rucksacks and tat in good condition and the tree is solid. |
||||
pete johnson | 19 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: 40m not 48m as in CC guide. Better done in one pitch. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: 40m not 48m as in CC guide. Better done in one pitch. |
||||
Siongethinhill | 20 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Abseil tat at top of route | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Abseil tat at top of route |
||||
Andypeak | 13 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Led 2nd pitch | ||
Show beta
βeta: Led 2nd pitch |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns))