Leaning out beneath the crack that splits the roof establish finger jams, (they are good ones) as far up as possible in the crack above the lip before cutting loose and swinging your leg/s/knee/s up onto the lip. Get your hands further up the crack and swap into a constricted bridging position on the lip of the groove, another 6 ft and it's all over. Good runners if you can keep your cool enough to place them, watch out you don't fall off and break your ankles on the slab below. (From user Motfoanrg, 2018.)

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Caff's 100 Ace E5s

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George_Surf 28 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: this looks like the description for mangoletsi, the superdirect starts up the thin crack much lower, below the overlap where the peg is...
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βeta: this looks like the description for mangoletsi, the superdirect starts up the thin crack much lower, below the overlap where the peg is...

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Guidebooks for Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog)

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Route of Interest
Waves of Inspiration

Grade: E5 6a ***
(California)

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