Restricted Access
A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the following routes:
Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).
Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:
- Tell Your God To Ready For Blood
- Chosstokovitch
- Error Of Judgement
Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.
(The above warning was submitted in October 2015)
See feedback below re the alternative starts.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Misha | 6 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The rib has indeed been affected by rockfall. The evil looking overhanging crack starting out of the cave goes at a burly E3 5c on good gear. Alternatively, start to the right of the rib and follow a line of weakness up and left at a mildly bold E2 5b (spaced gear) on good rock (the best rock at the crag perhaps, though that’s not saying much). If intending to do the silly traverses, take a triple rack of silver to gold cams, a couple of small blues and one big blue. In fact four sets of purples and greens wouldn’t go amiss. Also a few large wires (9-11) for the belays. Oh and there is no belay at the top. The comprehensive suggests walking down the slope. Alternatively, place as good gear as possible just before topping out and walk up and right to belay off the fence posts. 60m ropes advisable or leave some rigging rope trailing down the slope. We only had 50m ropes and we think I was just about on belay as the rope ran out but not entirely sure! Watch out for the dodgy booming flake above the belay on P4. Otherwise the route is relatively solid. Relatively. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The rib has indeed been affected by rockfall. The evil looking overhanging crack starting out of the cave goes at a burly E3 5c on good gear. Alternatively, start to the right of the rib and follow a line of weakness up and left at a mildly bold E2 5b (spaced gear) on good rock (the best rock at the crag perhaps, though that’s not saying much). If intending to do the silly traverses, take a triple rack of silver to gold cams, a couple of small blues and one big blue. In fact four sets of purples and greens wouldn’t go amiss. Also a few large wires (9-11) for the belays. Oh and there is no belay at the top. The comprehensive suggests walking down the slope. Alternatively, place as good gear as possible just before topping out and walk up and right to belay off the fence posts. 60m ropes advisable or leave some rigging rope trailing down the slope. We only had 50m ropes and we think I was just about on belay as the rope ran out but not entirely sure! Watch out for the dodgy booming flake above the belay on P4. Otherwise the route is relatively solid. Relatively. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Doris
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Silhouette
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))