Left of Crazy Pinacle (the aptly-named main feature on Craig Cwm Du) is a large, blunt buttress set above ribs and gullies. This is Bear Tower, the final obstacle of the vague, but logical rib and gully system of Bear Buttress. After a difficult start on the generally good rock of the lower buttress, this intimidating route finishes precariously up a technically easier, but unstable final tower. [Guidebook grade 2/3]

Ticklists

Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton

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User Date Notes
DylanDesachJones 7 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Followed the ashton guidebook. After the spiky ridge it says to take the right hand rib of the v groove slightly on your left ,do not use the left because it is unstable. I found myself in quite a precarious position with the only available gear being a thread around a supporting column that was hollow sounding!! The tower at the end was fun with some great climbing but again the obvious belay at the end is unsteady
Show beta
βeta: Followed the ashton guidebook. After the spiky ridge it says to take the right hand rib of the v groove slightly on your left ,do not use the left because it is unstable. I found myself in quite a precarious position with the only available gear being a thread around a supporting column that was hollow sounding!! The tower at the end was fun with some great climbing but again the obvious belay at the end is unsteady
Astilath 27 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: At time of writing, I've been up 68/80 of the routes in the Steve Ashton guidebook. Including Yr Esgair and a few more obscure ones. This is by far the most loose, crumbly route I've done. Not sure how much help rope, nuts and slings would be. They would probably just pull stuff off in the event of a fall! Its possible to escape the route before the loosest part of the tower by going up the right of the right hand gully next to the crazy pinnacle on its left side. I did that accidentally, following good rock. I checked the tower out from the top, reversed my route down the pinnacle (awfully loose and sketchy) and then finished the route properly! If you've not done many sketchy loose routes yet, I recommend to save this one for later. :-)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: At time of writing, I've been up 68/80 of the routes in the Steve Ashton guidebook. Including Yr Esgair and a few more obscure ones. This is by far the most loose, crumbly route I've done. Not sure how much help rope, nuts and slings would be. They would probably just pull stuff off in the event of a fall! Its possible to escape the route before the loosest part of the tower by going up the right of the right hand gully next to the crazy pinnacle on its left side. I did that accidentally, following good rock. I checked the tower out from the top, reversed my route down the pinnacle (awfully loose and sketchy) and then finished the route properly! If you've not done many sketchy loose routes yet, I recommend to save this one for later. :-)

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Guidebooks for Craig Cwm Du

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Voting
High 3S
Mid 3S
Low 3S
High Grade-3
Mid Grade-3
Low Grade-3
High Grade-2
Mid Grade-2
Low Grade-2
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Porcupine Ridge

Grade: Grade-3 ***
(Craig Braich Ty Du (Pen yr Ole Wen))

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