Rockfax Description
The approach is a little awkward, but the final groove is well worth it. Scramble up a steep vegetated path through the undergrowth to a sloping ledge below the steep wall.
The link of pitch 1 of Zukator and pitch 2 of Grasper is arguably even better then the original but worth E3.
1) 5c, 20m. Climb up a shallow groove to a tiny ledge. Move round the rib on the left to a niche. Pull out left again round a rib, then climb a groove to a small roof. Heave round this then use a crack on the left to move up to a well-positioned stance below the intimidating groove.
2) 5c, 15m. Move right and climb the brilliant and very sustained groove with a hard pull to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , Tremadog 2018/2019 , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Tremadog , North Wales To Do List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Lankcroft 1 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The approach was very overgrown - we beat a path through the dead brambles, but it took about an hour from the car to the base!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The approach was very overgrown - we beat a path through the dead brambles, but it took about an hour from the car to the base!

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Guidebooks for Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog)

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 28
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zarquon/Resurrection/Erection

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Llechog (Cwm Clogwyn))

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