36m, 2 pitches.
Start. As for the Brothers. Scramble up easily rightward to belay below the arete of Emily Street.
P1 Up the slabby corner and a short wall to gain and struggle through the obvious bottomless chimney.
The bottomless chimney can be avoided by climbing the wide flake crack on the right. 4c/5a? (FA 30.7.2012 Mike Lewis, Kevin Davies)
P2 From the right hand side of the ledge/block pull up right onto the wall. Continue up past an oak sapling onto a small ledge. Pull across rightward and boldly using an obvious undercut spike gain the corner forming the left hand side of the large overhang. This leads steeply to a large ledge and belay.
*The photo diagram in the Tremadog guide incorrectly shows pitch 1 pulling out left onto the Emily Street arete instead of climbing the bottomless chimney.
Cleaned and re-climbed Oct 2012.
P1 Up the slabby corner and a short wall to gain and struggle through the obvious bottomless chimney.
The bottomless chimney can be avoided by climbing the wide flake crack on the right. 4c/5a? (FA 30.7.2012 Mike Lewis, Kevin Davies)
P2 From the right hand side of the ledge/block pull up right onto the wall. Continue up past an oak sapling onto a small ledge. Pull across rightward and boldly using an obvious undercut spike gain the corner forming the left hand side of the large overhang. This leads steeply to a large ledge and belay.
*The photo diagram in the Tremadog guide incorrectly shows pitch 1 pulling out left onto the Emily Street arete instead of climbing the bottomless chimney.
Cleaned and re-climbed Oct 2012.
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Route of Interest
Plexus
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dinas Mot)