101m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fun outing that lies close to the A 5 and catches sun for much of the day. The first pitch has lovely rock and the final traverse negotiates some interesting gendarmes not unlike an alpine ridge. Start at the base of the ridge close to the letters 'PR' scratched in the rock.
1) 40m. Follow the right-hand of the two ribs on wonderful clean rock to a steep blocky section that leads to a heathery terrace. This point can be reached by a Grade 2 scramble from the right.
2) 15m. Follow easier ground to a good spike belay on a ledge.
3) 22m. Traverse right and climb the ridge to another ledge.
4) 20m. Follow the crested ridge on its left-hand side for the VD (Grade 2 scramble on right side) to gain easy ground. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A four pitch climb with easy access from the road and fun and interesting moves. 1) 30m. Start on a slabby rib which has PR scratched onto it, about 50m? up from the road. Delicate start on small holds. Some tricky moves if in boots. Awkward move into a groove formed on the side of a large block to a possible belay (good, we used it). Or continue more or less straight up and belay on a ledge with spike belays. (This might be the same thing - guidebook is a little confusing)
2) 22m. Continue up a groove for 10m to a heather terrace. Scramble up to reach a sloping heathery ledge with spike belay.
3) 23m. Traverse up and right over heather and rock to just below the continuing ridgeline. (Possible belay if rope drag is a problem.) Good holds lead up to the ridge and a ledge with spike belay.
4) 23m. Climb up to a small ledge below the first pinnacle. (The grade 2 scramble enters from the right about here.) Climb the 3m wall using big flaky holds to end up at the base of the first pinnacle. Climb up and over the pinnacles. (Getting down the first pinnacle's other side is tricky for the short. Can avoid it easily, but it is fun!) After the second big slender pinnacle, climb up a rocky step to a heathery grassy shoulder.

Looked for the loose block previously mentioned on pitch 2. Could not see it presume someone has removed it. Good 1st pitch, great atmospheric 4th pitch!

KU Ingold, Miss PJ Fearon, JM Bell 1950.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , Preparation climbs for a Cuillin ridge traverse , The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , No you're a punter

Feedback

User Date Notes
fi89 9 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Didn’t find the proper start but it was really ace. Nice and airy in parts.
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βeta: Didn’t find the proper start but it was really ace. Nice and airy in parts.
Nicky84 27 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: To find the start with PR etched into rock- walk along the road passing ogwen cottage- don’t go over ‘Alf’ style (we took this way and was a long slug and difficult to find)- continue on the road until a square wall section which there is a scree opposite a telegraph pole. Follow the scree up until you get to base of rock, head right and the start of the climb is there. We came down this way so imagine this is the quickest and easiest route up to it. Want to be level with the hit that is below the house across the road. If not you are in the wrong place. Found a lot of people commenting on difficulty to find the start so decided to get a pin to help others out. What3words ///ruling.regulates.machinery
βeta?
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βeta: To find the start with PR etched into rock- walk along the road passing ogwen cottage- don’t go over ‘Alf’ style (we took this way and was a long slug and difficult to find)- continue on the road until a square wall section which there is a scree opposite a telegraph pole. Follow the scree up until you get to base of rock, head right and the start of the climb is there. We came down this way so imagine this is the quickest and easiest route up to it. Want to be level with the hit that is below the house across the road. If not you are in the wrong place. Found a lot of people commenting on difficulty to find the start so decided to get a pin to help others out. What3words ///ruling.regulates.machinery
JaySheppard 6 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Not that great, people clearly only climb this for the gram
βeta?
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βeta: Not that great, people clearly only climb this for the gram
kiopo 23 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Find where you think the rockfax topo wants you to start, then go down and further to the left. Definitely has PR scratched on the rock!
βeta?
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βeta: Find where you think the rockfax topo wants you to start, then go down and further to the left. Definitely has PR scratched on the rock!
runwildjohn 21 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Following the line on the Rockfax topo gives a VS 4b first pitch. The VDiff start is 30m to the left and down from there.
Show beta
βeta: Following the line on the Rockfax topo gives a VS 4b first pitch. The VDiff start is 30m to the left and down from there.
steve2006 21 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: unsure where the first pitch starts but headed up a slight slab at left of parallel cracks in cave
βeta?
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βeta: unsure where the first pitch starts but headed up a slight slab at left of parallel cracks in cave
mattsmithuk 23 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax topo is incorrect, real start is round the corner to the left. See UKC comments for more detail
βeta?
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βeta: Rockfax topo is incorrect, real start is round the corner to the left. See UKC comments for more detail
Alfuller18 6 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great climbing- would be 3* but then middle heather terrace is full of gorse and a bit loose. Fantastic first pitch.
βeta?
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βeta: Great climbing- would be 3* but then middle heather terrace is full of gorse and a bit loose. Fantastic first pitch.

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Guidebooks for Craig Braich Ty Du (Pen yr Ole Wen)

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Voting
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
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Votes cast 54
Votes cast 55
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hope

Grade: VD ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))

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