Rockfax Description
An enjoyable semi-bolted route on slabs and cracks. The route ascends behind the south arete, giving rise to its name 'en coulisse', meaning 'backstage'. There are bolted belays and a mix of bolts and pegs on the harder pitches.
Start on the right side of the pyramid, below a triangular-shaped slab bordered on its right by a prominent gully. Begin 5m below the first bolt. Don't be confused by the cemented ring 6m to the left - this is the start of Spigolo Alpini.
1) V, 25m. Climb the vertical spur above direct to reach a bolted belay on a ledge.
2) V, 45m. Climb the chimney above then move right to continue vertically until the angle eases. Belay on a ledge in a small hollow.
3) III, 30m. Climb to the right of a grey outcrop, aiming for a corner where a single bolt offers a stance overlooking a scree-filled gully to the right.
4) IV+, 55m. Move right to cross the chossy gully then climb delicately up a rather blank looking slab with suprisingly good holds to move left at the top to a belay.
5) V-, 30m. Climb the slab above on its left, then continue with enjoyable climbing following a vague corner to reach a belay below a vertical face, just right of the arete.
6) V, 30m. Climb the steep wall above then continue first diagonally right then direct to a belay below a short slab.
7) V-, 30m. Climb the slab then continue up a steeper wall before reaching easier rocks which lead to the ridge. Bolt belay. From here the route follows the final three pitches of Spigolo Alpini. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Fun route, first pitch is sport (6a), all belays are bolted, exit on the via ferrata. After pitch 8, the route exits on a 150m ridge, partially exposed before ending on the via Alpini. 60m double rope, 6 long extenders, 2 slings, 2 kevlars, 2 small cams (#0.5/1 Dragon), small set of small/medium nuts, 1 belay. Topo "Arrampicare in Dolomiti" (M. Bernardi).
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Grade: V ***
(Monte Popena Basso)