19m.
Left of "El Poder de un Coño". Fun route. Imagine you are climbing Godzilla's spine.
Balancy moves up a groove to gain the left arete. Reach right to join El Poder de un Coño for the last 2 bolts.
Balancy moves up a groove to gain the left arete. Reach right to join El Poder de un Coño for the last 2 bolts.
Mark Holbrook 07/Nov/2021.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pottsy84 | 19 Apr |
Show βeta
βeta: 6 bolts in the first third very generous. 5 across the second two thirds make it a little spicier, mainly on the crux long reach on thin feet immediately before mantling at half height, though some may also not like the top crack; both fairly well above gear. It's not ridiculous, just not as friendly as much of Portland. The clip made just before mantling is a strong position - moving the bolt down and left a little so it can be made before leaving the last decent foothold would be friendlier. If you're at your limit, you won't like it (after getting in a bit of a mess trying to clip it on the redpoint I skipped it and ran out to the next one - would have been a long whip). | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: 6 bolts in the first third very generous. 5 across the second two thirds make it a little spicier, mainly on the crux long reach on thin feet immediately before mantling at half height, though some may also not like the top crack; both fairly well above gear. It's not ridiculous, just not as friendly as much of Portland. The clip made just before mantling is a strong position - moving the bolt down and left a little so it can be made before leaving the last decent foothold would be friendlier. If you're at your limit, you won't like it (after getting in a bit of a mess trying to clip it on the redpoint I skipped it and ran out to the next one - would have been a long whip). |
||||
Logged Ascents
12 users have logged this
Guidebooks for Coastguard North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
The Watchman
Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)