66m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Pleasant open and easy climbing, although gear can be a little tricky to arrange. Start in a bay below a massive pinnacle.
1) 20m. Climb up a wide crack to a ledge on the rib. Carry on up the rib past several small ledges to a big ledge and belay.
2) 20m. Move left and onto a flake then take the crack above, veering left into a scoop at its top. Climb a small groove to below a steepening then up the massive jugs on the right before teetering back left to a ledge. Belay off large gear and a root.
3) 20m. Follow the groove then move left onto a slab. At the top of a broken pillar, move right onto the slab and make thin and technical moves up this to another large ledge below a crack.
4) 20m. Ascend the short but difficult crack, and then swarm up the slab above to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Up large slab in centre of SE face

a j j moulam,j a f watson,r g hargreaves 05/Apr/1953.

Ticklists

UK's best Diffs and V.diffs , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , No you're a punter

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User Date Notes
Offwidth 27 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: On pitch 4 the wall just right of the crack is a useful alternative for those who prefer delicate climbing. Balance up big footholds using crimps and side-pulls to reach a handrail back into the crack, above the hard moves. No pro but easily spotted.
Show beta
βeta: On pitch 4 the wall just right of the crack is a useful alternative for those who prefer delicate climbing. Balance up big footholds using crimps and side-pulls to reach a handrail back into the crack, above the hard moves. No pro but easily spotted.
FallingBrick 18 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: 3rd pitch slab does have gear - just not a lot in the top half. Also look to the side of the route and use extenders if necessary. 4th pitch is more fun going left and over the flake rather than up the polished crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3rd pitch slab does have gear - just not a lot in the top half. Also look to the side of the route and use extenders if necessary. 4th pitch is more fun going left and over the flake rather than up the polished crack.
Duncan Beard 10 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: 4th pitch is easy if you traverse up to the big crack from the flake.
Show beta
βeta: 4th pitch is easy if you traverse up to the big crack from the flake.
Stacy Hackner 1 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: How is this a VDiff??? The final pitch (2 pitches??) is a quartzite slab with absolutely no gear. Pocket holds and no cracks. The route is a bit faffy and difficult to follow, but ok gear until you pass the root belay. After that, basically nada. We had to call our friends already at the top and get them to lower a top rope. That was definitely the more fun option (we could've abbed off from the previous belay station at the tree), and we were laughing til we almost wet ourselves at the predicament. While awaiting rescue we decided to politely coil our rope, and ended up simulclimbing a top rope - a hilarious end to an extremely faffy route. Note that a whistle blown at the second belay area will not be heard on the top. But there is 4G.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: How is this a VDiff??? The final pitch (2 pitches??) is a quartzite slab with absolutely no gear. Pocket holds and no cracks. The route is a bit faffy and difficult to follow, but ok gear until you pass the root belay. After that, basically nada. We had to call our friends already at the top and get them to lower a top rope. That was definitely the more fun option (we could've abbed off from the previous belay station at the tree), and we were laughing til we almost wet ourselves at the predicament. While awaiting rescue we decided to politely coil our rope, and ended up simulclimbing a top rope - a hilarious end to an extremely faffy route. Note that a whistle blown at the second belay area will not be heard on the top. But there is 4G.
EllenHolmes 18 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lead the second pitch and made an absolute pigs ear of it. Traversed left too early rather than going up the scoop. Gear and ropes everywhere. Set up a belay to the left of the tree then abbed of the big boulder next to it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lead the second pitch and made an absolute pigs ear of it. Traversed left too early rather than going up the scoop. Gear and ropes everywhere. Set up a belay to the left of the tree then abbed of the big boulder next to it.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns)

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Votes cast 100
Votes cast 92
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Digitalis Direct/Pinnacle Ridge Route

Grade: VD ***
(Craig Braich Ty Du (Pen yr Ole Wen))

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