Rockfax Description
Upgraded since it lost its peg, but still a fine route. Start as for The Gangway and make your way up to the groove to the right end of a large overhang. Climb this and grovel awkwardly round onto the ledge. Move back left on small pockets until you can make a big reach for a bigger pocket. Sustained climbing leads up to a heart-in-mouth foot swap in a pocket and a long move left to a spike. Finish up the blunt rib. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E3 ticklist

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User Date Notes
string arms 27 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The peg runner I put in on the first ascent was pretty poor. It was a tiny peck that I tied off and definitely wouldn’t have held a fall. The only gear I had in other than the peg was the gear in diapason just above the roof then one more after the foot swap I think. I was tempted to give it E4 at the time but didn’t think it was sustained enough. My second ( Charlie greatwich) thought hard E3 or soft E4. We opted for the former.
βeta?
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βeta: The peg runner I put in on the first ascent was pretty poor. It was a tiny peck that I tied off and definitely wouldn’t have held a fall. The only gear I had in other than the peg was the gear in diapason just above the roof then one more after the foot swap I think. I was tempted to give it E4 at the time but didn’t think it was sustained enough. My second ( Charlie greatwich) thought hard E3 or soft E4. We opted for the former.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn Gafr (aka Craig Fach)

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 11
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sacred Idol

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Clogwyn Gafr (aka Craig Fach))

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