126m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine old classic that takes an intricate line up the slender slab on this side of the West Buttress. The first route to breach the imposing West Buttress. Start at the foot of The Black Cleft.
1) 15m. Scramble across easy ground to a block and traverse right to a ledge below the narrow slabby corner.
2) 4a, 25m. Climb the slabby corner to a belay in the base of the widening chimney-crack.
3) 4b, 12m. Climb up the chimney and slab above either on the left (easier) or by pulling out right and traversing back above (better) to a belay on the right.
4) 35m. Easy climbing leads up the slab to a crevassed ledge on the right.
5) 4c, 25m. From the right end of the ledge, pull up steeply over the overhang on good but spaced holds. Then move right into a chimney. Climbing up this leads to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Excellent, exposed climbing after a wet and loose start. First main slab pitch very long to get a stance with decent belays (35m) just by the 'Faith and Friction' bit.

JL Longland, AS Pigott, FS Smythe, W Eversden, M Wood May/1928.

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , North Wales Rock Graded List , MIA logbook must haves! , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , High Quality Adventure routes , "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , 2021 , Welsh Roadtrip , Joes North Wales VS spaff attack , Consolidation VS-HVS , N Wales VS longlist

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Oxine

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn y Wenallt)

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