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CUMC First Ascents

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GeorgT 23 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch: groove little crumbly; traversing left can be taken at many different heights, holds all fairly similar size/edge. Second pitch: Although not climbing E5, the lack of protection, and the slowness of Caff seemed to make it out more weighty than E4. Suggested grade of E5, 5c for second pitch. Holds and kit only get gradually better at 7/8 metres above last (ok) kit. Take caution?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch: groove little crumbly; traversing left can be taken at many different heights, holds all fairly similar size/edge. Second pitch: Although not climbing E5, the lack of protection, and the slowness of Caff seemed to make it out more weighty than E4. Suggested grade of E5, 5c for second pitch. Holds and kit only get gradually better at 7/8 metres above last (ok) kit. Take caution?

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy)

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sultans of Swing

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

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