Restricted Access
Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
An excellent, tough route with good gear on the crux which lies in the top third of the climb. High in the grade. Start as for Jollies Route. Follow Jollies Route to the start of Inkerman Groove's crux traverse. Head up the wall to the right on pockets to a good wire and a peg a little higher up. Move left to a peg, and up to another peg, then on to a thin horizontal break. Move left again and up to another peg, before a final sequence up a thin crack gains the top. © Rockfax
FA. N.White 1985.
Ticklists
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The post lockdown local list , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E2 and some E3 and a few E4 and an E5
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Duncan Campbell | 11 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: All pegs bar the final one in the groove in good nick, but still worth backing them up wherever possible as you could hit the tower feature on original route if one broke and you were above it. Last peg looks poor but it’s easy after that. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: All pegs bar the final one in the groove in good nick, but still worth backing them up wherever possible as you could hit the tower feature on original route if one broke and you were above it. Last peg looks poor but it’s easy after that. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
A Widespread Ocean of Fear
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Lundy)