49m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Two contrasting pitches - the first requires care and the second is a testing exercise up a wide and overhanging cleft. Start at the base of a broad buttress that has two small caves at 7m.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the steep buttress right of the two small caves on sloping holds to slabby rock, move up the slab and then traverse left to a large ledge. Take the short vertical wall to another large ledge beneath the overhanging corner and belay.
2) 4b, 31m. Climb the corner behind the stance, above a small cave, to where it starts to overhang. Climb the overhanging corner, either up the wide crack or on its right wall - both options are committing. Above, easy climbing leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. N.Hannaby 1960.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Bristol Crack School , Chudleigh Challenge , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I)

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User Date Notes
Martgib 21 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch runout, ground-fall potential on easy climbing. Second pitch amazing, almost 3***
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch runout, ground-fall potential on easy climbing. Second pitch amazing, almost 3***
ADJ85 20 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: led 2nd pitch lovely route, thin on gear low down
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: led 2nd pitch lovely route, thin on gear low down

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 25
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Western

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)

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