Restricted Access

Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June). 
13m.

Rockfax Description
The central line of weakness through the stacked overhangs is a spectacular climb on jugs, a couple of which are a touch wobbly.
Protection is good. Start at the large cage beneath the overhangs. From the top of the cage, step rightwards onto the slab beneath the line. Climb on good holds to twin pegs and then another peg a little higher on the left. Grasp a large flat flange and pull around the overhang above on big holds, the top is a little higher. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9

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tim@arĂȘte 26 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great stuff!
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Logged Ascents

284 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 24 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 32
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Quatermass

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Lundy)

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