Restricted Access
Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
The curving, slim groove high on the wall is one of the best limestone VSs in Britain. Start as for Jollies Route. Follow Jollies Route to a point above the overhang at the start of its second pitch, then move up to a crack at the bottom left of the blank grey and white wall. Make a technical traverse right to the base of the slim curving groove and follow this to an easing above a small ivy patch. Exit the groove rightwards to a ledge and take the short wall above to the top. Magnificent. © Rockfax
FA. Eric Rayson, Nev Hannaby 01/Jan/1960.
Ticklists
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , University of Exeter must tick's , South West Classic VS's , Moving to Devon , Chudleigh Challenge , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Classic Rock Climbs in Southern England by Bill Birkett , Redemption , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Dan’s Delights , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I) , University of Exeter Climbing Club - Must Do!
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EdJHarley | 8 Jan |
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βeta: Number 2 DMM Wallnut stuck at the top ledge of Inkerman Groove today, just below left most piton. If you can save it, please pop me a message. In the meantime, nut provides a bomber alternative to the otherwise wobbly left peg! True of June 23 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Number 2 DMM Wallnut stuck at the top ledge of Inkerman Groove today, just below left most piton. If you can save it, please pop me a message. In the meantime, nut provides a bomber alternative to the otherwise wobbly left peg! True of June 23 |
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| jameslomax | 3 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: There is a lower off at the top but it consists of 3 very rusty pegs, and is improperly equalized so you would be weighting one peg as you ab. Not my cup of tea so preferable is an easy move straight up from here to top out. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There is a lower off at the top but it consists of 3 very rusty pegs, and is improperly equalized so you would be weighting one peg as you ab. Not my cup of tea so preferable is an easy move straight up from here to top out. |
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| ewalker278 | 22 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Anyone find a south Devon guidebook near the base of this in the last few days? May have left it here on thursday evening (19th). Cheers, Ed | βeta? | |
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βeta: Anyone find a south Devon guidebook near the base of this in the last few days? May have left it here on thursday evening (19th). Cheers, Ed |
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| Phwee | 20 Oct, 2016 |
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βeta: So good. Should take my time next time to enjoy it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: So good. Should take my time next time to enjoy it. |
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| chris j | 7 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: The direct's not bad too, & only slightly harder (straight through the overhang to the base of the big groove) | βeta? | |
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βeta: The direct's not bad too, & only slightly harder (straight through the overhang to the base of the big groove) |
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| victim of mathematics | 8 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Awesome. Sustained VS 4c goodness. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Awesome. Sustained VS 4c goodness. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face
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Suspension Flake
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Hound Tor)