Restricted Access
Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
A fingery exercise on excellent rock. Its name was apt as the harbinger of terror when it was graded E1. Start just left of the arete, below a peg at 5m.
1) 5b, 17m. A very slippery start gains the peg and some small wires. Traverse left with difficulty for 5m on small holds to an easing at a thin vertical crack. Climb the crack and move rightwards to a large belay ledge.
2) 5a, 16m. Move up and stand on a block on the left, peg. Step right into an open groove and climb it past some poor rock and a very wobbly but keyed-in small block to finish up easier ground. © Rockfax
FA. I. McMorrin 1965.
Ticklists
Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Iain Weymouth | 23 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Phew! Polished start with sustained fingery moves, P1 felt like 5c to me! P2 very good and a doddle in comparison. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Phew! Polished start with sustained fingery moves, P1 felt like 5c to me! P2 very good and a doddle in comparison. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face
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Redspeed
Grade: E2 5c ***
(Lundy)