Restricted Access
Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.
Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.
Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 4 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June).
Rockfax Description
One of Chudleigh's well-worn favourites that follows the wide snaking crack left of Cow Cave. Start below a short 3m wall directly beneath the crack. Climb the wall to a ledge and take on the wide crack and its right wall with conviction. At its top, move left to a narrower section of crack that leads quickly to the top. © Rockfax
FA. T.Patey 1960.
Ticklists
West Country Climbs , South West VDiff-HVS , Bristol Crack School , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , I want a Pasty! , South Devon Stars: Diff - HVS , Birds , S Devon & Dartmoor’s Severe Stars , The South Devon Time Machine (Part I)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| katie_hodgey | 29 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Raven/crow nest in the crack at about half height. Bees nest near the top so go right to the tree to avoid. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Raven/crow nest in the crack at about half height. Bees nest near the top so go right to the tree to avoid. |
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| Dave1987 | 19 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Wasps nest at the top, finish right to avoid. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wasps nest at the top, finish right to avoid. |
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| Graeme Hammond | 30 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Bees currently in top crack best traverse right at the top to avoid | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bees currently in top crack best traverse right at the top to avoid |
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| MGrock | 20 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: Tricky route for the grade. Very polished and big cams needed to protect some of it. High in the grade. | ||
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βeta: Tricky route for the grade. Very polished and big cams needed to protect some of it. High in the grade. |
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| BuzyG | 21 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Good fun route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good fun route. |
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| drdave | 22 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: It's not a nest, its a large English Ivy, which bees take most of their food from in the autumn. The bees shouldn't feel threatened, but the plant is virulent, and if not controlled, will take over the rockface. It is already spreading on the route, no doubt assisted by the lack of traffic this summer. Is gardening allowed? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It's not a nest, its a large English Ivy, which bees take most of their food from in the autumn. The bees shouldn't feel threatened, but the plant is virulent, and if not controlled, will take over the rockface. It is already spreading on the route, no doubt assisted by the lack of traffic this summer. Is gardening allowed? |
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| TimPWigley | 13 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Looks more like a wasp nest than a bees nest. Finish right and belay off the tree and they leave you alone. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Looks more like a wasp nest than a bees nest. Finish right and belay off the tree and they leave you alone. |
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| jk29 | 31 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: No bee nest at the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: No bee nest at the top. |
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| JamesAS | 18 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Bee nest at the top on the left, but looks like everyone is finishing to the right to easily avoid it. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bee nest at the top on the left, but looks like everyone is finishing to the right to easily avoid it. |
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| Mlewis | 6 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Large active bees nest on the last few meters. Easy to step to the right for a alternative fuel finish. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Large active bees nest on the last few meters. Easy to step to the right for a alternative fuel finish. |
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| Yeah Roy bmx | 22 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: BEES NEST. In crack on the left of the airy step right below the last slab. Don’t get stung. | βeta? | |
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βeta: BEES NEST. In crack on the left of the airy step right below the last slab. Don’t get stung. |
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| Slawek Noga | 19 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: bee nest on the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: bee nest on the top |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face
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Jollies Route
Grade: HVD ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)