Restricted Access

The Corailized and Road Rage wall have fingery and steep test piece routes best avoided in the heat of the sun and can turn greasy when afternoon shade come on faces. But there is some more humble offering in The Nook and the newly developed area below. Until 2014 there were some moderate graded routes on the  blocky wall left of Corailized but a significant rockfall left the routes scattered across the beach below ( note the staples in blocks as you walk past) as almost blocking of the curious tunnel that the spring flows from.

Though not restricted it is also worth avoiding to climbing or hanging around in the lefthand wall in Dungecroft quarry and encourage the puplic to avoid too, as this is very close to the Peregrines nesting spot.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes from high arête left of Coralized wall to and including Dutch Courage. 

You very visible from bird watchers so during restriction access and climb on Rage wall with as little fuss as possible. Can be accessed by abseil from Dunecroft Quarry but walking in and out along boulder beach quietly is also acceptable.  

Though not restricted it is also worth avoiding the climbing or hanging around in the lefthand wall area in Dungecroft quarry and encourage the puplic to avoid too, as this is very close to the Peregrines nesting spot.

21m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the lower wall to a tough slim flake-line on the headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Gav Symonds 31/Jan/2008.

Ticklists

Portland , Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
JIMBO 17 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The detached pinnacle is now quite a bit shorter... if fell off crushing and cutting part of my rope! The start is a little harder, but at least you won't hit the pinnacle!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The detached pinnacle is now quite a bit shorter... if fell off crushing and cutting part of my rope! The start is a little harder, but at least you won't hit the pinnacle!
samparsons 17 Dec, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Pretty rough at the bottom walk the climbed for the first 3 bolts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pretty rough at the bottom walk the climbed for the first 3 bolts.

Logged Ascents

31 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Cheyne Cliff

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 18 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Reverence

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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