Restricted Access

The Corailized and Road Rage wall have fingery and steep test piece routes best avoided in the heat of the sun and can turn greasy when afternoon shade come on faces. But there is some more humble offering in The Nook and the newly developed area below. Until 2014 there were some moderate graded routes on the  blocky wall left of Corailized but a significant rockfall left the routes scattered across the beach below ( note the staples in blocks as you walk past) as almost blocking of the curious tunnel that the spring flows from.

Though not restricted it is also worth avoiding to climbing or hanging around in the lefthand wall in Dungecroft quarry and encourage the puplic to avoid too, as this is very close to the Peregrines nesting spot.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes from high arête left of Coralized wall to and including Dutch Courage. 

You very visible from bird watchers so during restriction access and climb on Rage wall with as little fuss as possible. Can be accessed by abseil from Dunecroft Quarry but walking in and out along boulder beach quietly is also acceptable.  

Though not restricted it is also worth avoiding the climbing or hanging around in the lefthand wall area in Dungecroft quarry and encourage the puplic to avoid too, as this is very close to the Peregrines nesting spot.

20m.

Rockfax Description
An impressive line up the steep orange scoop, gained by swinging right from the third bolt on Fireblade. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 24/Apr/1999.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jon_Butters 15 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Completing this route turned out to be a bit a of a journey but it was well worth the effort. Fantastic, varied climbing that doesn't let you relax until the chain is clipped. As for the grade, I think 8a is deserved even if it might be an easier one. It feels a definite step up from the 7c+'s on the island and just as tough as 8as I've done elsewhere.
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βeta: Completing this route turned out to be a bit a of a journey but it was well worth the effort. Fantastic, varied climbing that doesn't let you relax until the chain is clipped. As for the grade, I think 8a is deserved even if it might be an easier one. It feels a definite step up from the 7c+'s on the island and just as tough as 8as I've done elsewhere.
Kris suriyo 4 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LTxL4stUblk
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LTxL4stUblk

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Cheyne Cliff

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hell's Darker Chambers

Grade: 8a ***
(Dancing Ledge)

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