Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Extremely powerful climbing up the wall right of Darl with a thuggish crux. The initial wall is hard enough but from the bulge it really starts to pack a punch. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1996.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
Gary Gibson 15 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Because my signature name isn't Gary Gibson but another pseudonym. I cocked the Gary Gibson bit up a while ago when signing in and offered the two other alternatives I have. There was no other reason and what dose it matter anyway?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Because my signature name isn't Gary Gibson but another pseudonym. I cocked the Gary Gibson bit up a while ago when signing in and offered the two other alternatives I have. There was no other reason and what dose it matter anyway?
duncan b 15 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: why are you referring to yourself in the third person gary?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: why are you referring to yourself in the third person gary?
Gary Gibson 14 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Just to correct the information surrounding the first ascent. Gary Gibson never used any form of aid on the first ascent neither in the form of a rest point or a direct pull on any of the pegs or bolt. Where this came from is unknown but a complete misnomer.
Show beta
βeta: Just to correct the information surrounding the first ascent. Gary Gibson never used any form of aid on the first ascent neither in the form of a rest point or a direct pull on any of the pegs or bolt. Where this came from is unknown but a complete misnomer.
north country boy 6 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome Route with sustained technical then butch moves to pass bulge! Well worth two stars.... However, 16m? it seems much shorter!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome Route with sustained technical then butch moves to pass bulge! Well worth two stars.... However, 16m? it seems much shorter!
g2 10 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The route leads you on through some delightfully thin wall moves, into a powerful move past the second bolt and then the awkward and committing crux - much better than its neighbour.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The route leads you on through some delightfully thin wall moves, into a powerful move past the second bolt and then the awkward and committing crux - much better than its neighbour.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Boltest

Grade: 7c ***
(Long Tor Quarry)

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