Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

The Remnant. Climb into the cave and bridge up to the tufa and a thread. Make moves up and right across the bulge using the large sidepulls to crimps on the face. More big moves on positive holds up and left lead to a jug on the right. Finish more easily.

M Crocker.

Ticklists

Cheddar Eight's , West Country projects , South West 8's , UK 8a and up , Andy's Projects , Bristol Bangers

Feedback

User Date Notes
Wise 13 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Some hollow rock on the crux, be gentle with it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some hollow rock on the crux, be gentle with it.
DylanAsena 10 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing line! Relentless but worth all the effort
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Amazing line! Relentless but worth all the effort
TomHobbs97 26 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Could do with another bolt below the first. Awkward to belay in current state and would be sketchy to try and onsight without a long clipstick. I saw people clipsticking up the threads on the "trad route" to the left so don't think another bolt would detract from that one.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Could do with another bolt below the first. Awkward to belay in current state and would be sketchy to try and onsight without a long clipstick. I saw people clipsticking up the threads on the "trad route" to the left so don't think another bolt would detract from that one.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 46
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ghetto Bouteille

Grade: 8a ***
(Cheddar Gorge North)

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