Restricted Access
The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.
The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.
Seasonal Restrictions
Reason: Nesting Birds
Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.
The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.
A rock 2 or similar eases the run-out above the second staple.
Ticklists
Cheddar 7's , 7Bs with stars near Bristol
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| hms | 8 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: in its current form this is not a sport route. We put gear in the left hand crack, then a very long extender from B1 so it could be clipped from the ledge at 3m. We blasted straight up from there with no further use of the corner. Between B2 & B3 there is a very good small nut slot although the rock sounded slightly hollow so we connected it by a long draw to B3 just in case! If it's given a sport grade then it's sport ethics and that means customising clip lengths etc is fair game!! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: in its current form this is not a sport route. We put gear in the left hand crack, then a very long extender from B1 so it could be clipped from the ledge at 3m. We blasted straight up from there with no further use of the corner. Between B2 & B3 there is a very good small nut slot although the rock sounded slightly hollow so we connected it by a long draw to B3 just in case! If it's given a sport grade then it's sport ethics and that means customising clip lengths etc is fair game!! |
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| Fakey Rocks | 2 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: There are no lower off bolts. 3 staples in total, you can step off left after the 3rd or try to top out direct, and walk down. Possibly only soft 7b if you use the left corner for gear (recommended, but it's still gonna hurt when you hit the corner if you slip b4 b1!) and step out from there to get b1 clipped. Going direct from the floor with no gear to b1 has even harder moves, on crimps etc that quickly sweat up, is reach dependant, I wouldn't try it without b1 pre clipped if you can find a long enough clip stick! | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: There are no lower off bolts. 3 staples in total, you can step off left after the 3rd or try to top out direct, and walk down. Possibly only soft 7b if you use the left corner for gear (recommended, but it's still gonna hurt when you hit the corner if you slip b4 b1!) and step out from there to get b1 clipped. Going direct from the floor with no gear to b1 has even harder moves, on crimps etc that quickly sweat up, is reach dependant, I wouldn't try it without b1 pre clipped if you can find a long enough clip stick! |
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Logged Ascents
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Paradise Lost
Grade: 7b ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)