Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

12m. Start below a tiny overlap. Climb up through the overlap onto the wall above and move up to a large flat sticking-out hold.
If you're tall make a huge reach for a hold in a thin break, otherwise improvise via small holds on the left. Finish more easily.

Ticklists

Cheddar Sevens , Cheddar 7's , Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal , Bolts to clip in Cheddar , 7Bs with stars near Bristol , Bristol Sport Pyramid , Cianchi's Hit List

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Hudson 2 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely face climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely face climbing.
Tall Oak 11 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Firstly, the penultimate and second from top bolts are beyond rusty. If you take whipper I dont know if these would hold. I did clip stick up and decided not to sit on these - I went right onto the next line up to the bolts. What a route otherwise. Did both variations to get a feel for them. Shoulder left is slightly harder I felt. First outdoor 7b! Whoop
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Firstly, the penultimate and second from top bolts are beyond rusty. If you take whipper I dont know if these would hold. I did clip stick up and decided not to sit on these - I went right onto the next line up to the bolts. What a route otherwise. Did both variations to get a feel for them. Shoulder left is slightly harder I felt. First outdoor 7b! Whoop
RD 9 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: At least 2 of the hangers/bolts are mixed Steel / Stainless which has resulted in corrosion of the steel bolt. Big No No. These should be replaced!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: At least 2 of the hangers/bolts are mixed Steel / Stainless which has resulted in corrosion of the steel bolt. Big No No. These should be replaced!
Fakey Rocks 31 May, 2018 Show βeta
βeta: Take care.. some bolts on this look rather rusty and old... Should be replaced. Crux bolts are newer + ok.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take care.. some bolts on this look rather rusty and old... Should be replaced. Crux bolts are newer + ok.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 109
Votes cast 95
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
DWS
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Still Waters Run Deep

Grade: 7b ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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