11m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the centre of the wall, with a tricky start via a niche. Low in the grade and with good gear throughout. © Rockfax

FA. Colin Mortlock 1958.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , The Froggatt to Black Rocks into HVS smile list

Feedback

User Date Notes
MatthewK 17 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned this up today (2022-05-17). Enjoy!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cleaned this up today (2022-05-17). Enjoy!
Chris Davids 17 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: How could anyone say this route is poorly protected. There are bomber wire placements all the way up. Firstly there's a no1 on the nose of the bulge and then a sinker no 6 above the bulge (can be placed from below). Another couple of medium wires protect the rest of the route. Adam, what route were you on? A fine HVS 5a.
Show beta
βeta: How could anyone say this route is poorly protected. There are bomber wire placements all the way up. Firstly there's a no1 on the nose of the bulge and then a sinker no 6 above the bulge (can be placed from below). Another couple of medium wires protect the rest of the route. Adam, what route were you on? A fine HVS 5a.
LakesWinter 20 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Again, if harvey the login stealing ruiner found this hard for HVS you can probably drop the ´V´to get the correct grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Again, if harvey the login stealing ruiner found this hard for HVS you can probably drop the ´V´to get the correct grade.
trekkie 20 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Really satisfying climb - short but with a bit of everything... Awkward gymnastic moves off the ground round the bulge and tricky step right followed by slightly off-balance slab climbing. protection is ok - just enough there.. Trekkie June 05
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really satisfying climb - short but with a bit of everything... Awkward gymnastic moves off the ground round the bulge and tricky step right followed by slightly off-balance slab climbing. protection is ok - just enough there.. Trekkie June 05
MNA123 9 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Maybe low in the grade but is still definately HVS 5a, great moves all the way and poor protection with a couple of really small friends (1/2 and 3/4). Great route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Maybe low in the grade but is still definately HVS 5a, great moves all the way and poor protection with a couple of really small friends (1/2 and 3/4). Great route.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 72
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 72
Votes cast 67
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Terrazza Crack

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage North)

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