UKC

Climbs 10
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 2823m a.s.l
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The Charmoz, the Moon and the Blaitière. © jon

Just a health warning regarding a recent mountain collapse: Basically, I happened to be dicking about on the Mer de Glace at twilight in late August 2019 and witnessed a terrifyingly large collapse on the north face of the Charmoz. It was very high up and to the right of but level with the Aiguille de la Republique. Even from a relatively safe distance the rock fall triggered an insane and very frightening amount of mountain mountain mass. I'm not sure which routes will have been affected. Certainly, it would not have directly affected the Cordier Pillar, however, it would likely enough have killed anyone caught out on the descent from that route. The debris plumes reached the Mer de Glace, although fortunately the cirque housing (or formally housing) the Glacier de la Thendia captured the bulk of the collapse - otherwise a party returning late across the Mer de Glace that happened to be in the fall line would have probably pegged it. To put in perspective how big a collapse this was, I was about 800m further down the glacier and it was violent enough for me to momentarily seek cover. I have photos of the collapse should any USERs planning a climb on that north face need them.
jimorothy - 11/Dec/19
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